
Original article and pictures take http://stashvault.tumblr.com/post/144069710645/hidden-door-to-gun-closet site
Uno de los elementos que no puede faltar en un jardín o patio es una pérgola. Además de utilizar su estructura como elemento decorativo, nos proporcionan sombra, nos cobijan de la lluvia y hacen los espacios exteriores más practicables.
Por lo general, las pérgolas se diseñan y construyen en base a la estética de la casa, para que la estructura, que suele ser de gran tamaño, encaje con el estilo y resulte armónica y coherente, creando un todo visualmente atractivo. Por ello hemos recogido estas 15 ideas para hacer 15 pérgolas diferentes, para que te inspires, conozcas distintos estilos de pérgolas y sus materiales. Empecemos.

De madera, pintada de blanco, con los espacios entre los pilares cubiertos con finas tablas para cercar el patio y con un techo de plástico corrugado que, además de dejar pasar la luz, protege de la lluvia, tal y como en esta casa que vemos en Homes To Love.
Y es que es importante que tengas en cuenta que una pérgola cerrada puede quitar mucha luz a la vivienda, dependiendo de la orientación de ésta, naturalmente.

Esta otra pérgola moderna diseñada por el estudio Ross Tang, cuenta con dos finos pilares únicamente fijados al suelo y con, igualmente, finas láminas de madera entre las viguetas tejiendo una estructura que limite la entrada de sol.

Una estructura completa, la de esta otra vivienda que vemos en Hus & Hem, independiente de la estructura de la casa, en negro, y en lugar de viguetas, un toldo blanco creando un elegante contraste.

Esta otra pérgola cuenta con un curioso y sofisticado techo, diseñado por los paisajistas de Exterior Worlds, que simula en negativo las hojas de un árbol, para crear una sombra parecida a la que crearía el verdadero follaje de un árbol. Son planchas de metal en las que se ha hecho el dibujo mediante corte con agua.

A dos aguas, como hizo el estudio Kikuchi, con planchas de plástico corrugado que protegen de la lluvia, y una bonita estructura superior de vigas y viguetas en madera, dejando los pilares revestidos de cemento.

Metal y madera, otro tándem clásico para construir una pérgola. Los pilares y las vigas en metal, dejando el entramado de madera, limitando la entrada de luz, tal y como han hecho en Couture et Turbulences.

Rústica. Con grandes troncos de madera como pilares, vigas y viguetas, y una malla de metal en el techo para permitir a la vegetación extenderse y a los pájaros posarse.

El estudio COS Design ha diseñado este espacio que cuenta con una pérgola en voladizo y soportes en un único lado. Los listones de madera se fijan a los pilares en ele, en su parte inferior, creando una estilizada pérgola moderna.

Sencilla y de madera, pero muy práctica, esta otra pérgola que vemos en Cote Maison. Con los listones que componen el entramado en ángulo para permitir la entrada de luz, pero no directa. Es un detalle muy importante.

Mezclando varios materiales, como ladrillo visto en la parte posterior, hormigón en los pilares frontales y dejando el techo para madera en tonos negros, como ha hecho el equipo de Creative Environments, en este precioso jardín con piscina moderno.

Foto Alt
En madera y minimalista. Con madera pintada de negra o ebonizada, utilizando el tamaño justo en los pilares y viguetas para que se integren con la vivienda, sin crear un armatoste visualmente pesado.

Elegante y suntuosa, hecha de madera únicamente con una instalación de agua en su parte superior que permite crear una exótica cortina de agua que cae en la piscina, como han diseñado los paisajistas de Seasonal Services.

Sencilla y tradicional esta otra pérgola creada con tubos de hierro a modo de pilares, listones de metal como viguetas y para que la luz del sol no sea directa cañizo en el techo.

Y para terminar con esta colección, lo hacemos con esta sutil y elegante pérgola moderna diseñada por el arquitecto Nick Leith Smith, que cuenta con una estructura de madera pintada de blanco y un elegante y sofisticado toldo en formato cortina, con una suave caída, creando un cómodo y agradable ambiente para relajarse.
Hacer una pérgola no es una tarea muy difícil si se conocen materiales tales como la madera o el metal y se tienen las herramientas necesarias, pero si no te quieres complicar, siempre puedes contratar los servicios de un profesional, o comprar una bonita pérgola hecha o prefabricada, como estas que puedes ver aquí.
¿Cómo has diseñado la pérgola de tu jardín? Te leo en los comentarios.
Ver: Acondiciona tu jardín con pérgolas y cortinas de cristal.
Original article and pictures take https://www.milideas.net/15-ideas-para-hacer-una-pergola-con-estilo site
We decided that our little farm needed a root cellar to store our produce in. For those unfamiliar with the term, a root cellar is an underground room that acts like a natural refrigerator, maintaining temperatures in the mid 30's F in the winter and mid 50's in the summer.
Step one: Dig a hole in the ground. We are fortunate to have a local gravedigger who is a real artist with a backhoe. He can carve a hole with straight sides almost within an inch of what you ask for.
Step two, pour a concrete footer. Then start laying blocks. About 320 went into this 8 x 8 foot cellar.
Almost finished here. Now, for the fun part, pouring a concrete roof. A simple flat slab wouldn't do, for you want condensation to run off to the sides. So, I created a plywood from with an arched top. The arch would also create a stronger roof. It also created a very strong form.
I built the form in the shop, then dismantled it.
The arches are 1/2 inch plywood pressed into dadoed grooves in the 2x4's. This created an extremely strong structure.
Satisfied with the form I reassembled it on the root cellar walls.
A nice snug fit, supported by 3 vertical 2x4's on each side. (Not shown in the picture are 8 pieces of 1/2" plywood approximately 6" x 23". These were installed after the plywood sheets were added. They are used as extra reinforcing ribs by wedging them between the plywood sheets and the top of the 2x4's.) Next, the plywood, a sheet of plastic and lots of 1/2 rebar. Lots of rebar. Rebar is cheap, so why not? If this were a flat 4 inch slab, the calculated load rating is around 250 pounds/square foot. More then enough. But it is arched, and up to 5 inches thick. Also the rebar extends into the walls a foot, and are cemented in place. Not sure what the load rating is now, but it is certainly more than adequate.
18 half inch rebars on 8 inch centers. Strong enough!
Next, add a perimeter to the form and pour concrete. About 4,000 pounds worth. I expected at least a little deformation of my form, for all that weight was being borne by my 5 arches, but there was none! Impressive.
Not taking any chances, I did not enter the cellar until I was confident the concrete was fully cured.
Removing the form from inside was not difficult, for it was designed for easy disassembly and re-use.
A view of the top before the entrance was completed and the cellar covered with 2 feet of earth. The wood at the rear is covering the ends of the rebar to prevent injury. They will be part of the reinforcement for the entrance-way.
I poured the roof in 3 sections, for that is the most concrete I can handle working alone. The seams are nearly invisible from below, and are waterproof. It was not difficult creating the arch in the top using standard concrete. The radius of the top arch is about 6 inches larger than below.
The arched ceiling is as glossy as a counter top, thanks to the plastic sheet I laid over the plywood.
See light reflecting off ceiling in picture below left.
Below Right: Add stairs and doors at top and bottom, and you have a fine root cellar, ready for lots of fruits and vegetables. Currently we are storing apples, carrots and potatoes, and we are pleased with the results.
One of the two 4 inch vents can be seen in the corner. The other is in the opposite corner.
To save labor and materials, I built the stairway with half of it on a foundation at the floor level, and the other half of the foundation just below the frost line. I felt that digging the entire stairwell to the floor level would have just created a large inaccessible space.
This project took a few months of evenings after work over the summer. It was cooler then, and the mortar did not dry too fast. All concrete and mortar, about 8,000 pounds in all, was either mixed with a small mixer, or by hand.

Here is a drawing of the block layout. In order to center my stairwell, I had to cut some blocks into two pieces, a 12 inch piece, and a 4 inch piece. That is because my interior width is 88 inches. If you make your width 96 inches, you will not have to do this. A wet tile saw cuts through concrete blocks with ease. I have used mine to cut many blocks, including the angled pieces that form the arched tops of the walls. Since the saw can only cut about 1/2 inch deep, you make a cut on each side. The blocks will easily split then by driving a chisel into the cut. Make gentle taps, while moving the chisel along the cut and they will break cleanly. You can see how good the cuts are in the pictures of the walls before the roof was poured.

Here is a picture of a very similar cellar. He used a higher arch, which is something I would do if I had to do it all over again, for condensation does not readily run to the sides of my flatter arch. He was very conservative and used 28 vertical supports. I used only 6. His roof weighed 5,000 pounds wet vs. my 4,000 pounds, therefore his supports were holding only 250 pounds each, while mine were holding 670 pounds. However, his ceiling was much higher than mine, and his 96 inch supports would be more prone to bending under the load than my 65 inch supports. His wood arches are on 16 inch centers, while mine are on 24 inch centers. However, I have a "backbone" made from a 2x4 running along the top, and 2 rows of plywood rectangles fitted in between my wood arches. He tarred his sides, I did not. To tar or not is determined by how wet your ground is. For more info see: http://campfire.theoildrum.com/node/5596
Other topics that I have that may be of interest:
A solar hot water heater. This has performed far beyond my expectations, even in winter. If you can find a used system, like I did, it will pay for itself in only a few years.
Rion Greenhouse. An easy to assemble greenhouse kit that has proven to be durable in high winds and heavy snow. It is now 5 year sold, and has held up well.
Insulating and finishing the interior of a pole barn garage/workshop. How I gave my pole barn a nice insulated interior in a budget.
Original article and pictures take http://robertsprojects.blogspot.com/2010/02/root-cellar.html?m=1 site
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Original article and pictures take http://ftempo.com/lathe-homemade-plan/ site
For this spring we present you 30 fun diy kitchen projects. These diy projects are so inspiring that you don’t have to wait the spring, you can start now. Be creative and use these projects as inspiration. Kitchen diy projects are always fun to do. You can start with making spring recipe book. After that you can make a beautiful little herbs indoor garden in your kitchen. Hanging basket with fruits is so fun idea to do. If you have problems with organizing your kitchen, we have some great solutions for you. There are also very creative and decorative utensils holders. Here are some awesome diy kitchen projects for this spring. Have fun…










Original article and pictures take http://www.architectureartdesigns.com/30-fun-diy-kitchen-projects-spring/?Homedecordiy=8123027175 site